Part I of the collection took inspiration from clothing worn by devotees within religious orders around the world. Part II explores beyond – citing subcultures that share devotional and ritualistic observances, a uniform, a moral code, and set of beliefs between members. Take for example a military platoon, gang, crew, or tribe – all operate as discrete subcultures within civil society. They issue uniforms, create insignia, and assign rank. Insignia and badging are a dominant theme of this season, with silhouettes taking reference from those worn by gang or crew members. Details such as badging, characteristic raw edges, and rough cut finishing further solidify the lineage across military, gang, or crew uniform, and the collection. Rocker banners and badges adorn garments and are incorporated into their seam structures. Many have been left blank for a sense of ambiguity, allowing the wearer devotion to their own cause. Their placement however takes inspiration from military, biker, and streetwear applications, which share this common thread. Spiritual devotion is a mainstay that is referenced continuously in maharishi collections. It represents an ongoing thematic duality; east meets west, and nature meets technology. A number of silhouettes this season have taken exaggerated cues from the robes of Buddhist monks and the blankets of Indian Sadhus. This season’s core colour is entitled Lama, and draws inspiration from Tibetan Buddhist monks’ habits – reinforcing maharishi’s pacifist approach to military design. Other key colours include a dusty pink taking cue from the Pink Panthers of World War II, and finally a nature inspired autumnal rust. Patterns reinterpret seasonal colours to achieve the core Temple Camouflage colourway, with Autumn, Jungle, and Night rounding out the palette. Bonsai tree shapes growing from heavenly clouds remind us that camouflage has its roots in nature. In AW16 maharishi updates its perennial camouflage, stretching the graphic shapes for the first time. The effect further enforces the elements, as it mimics natural wood grain texture in abstract. The stretched scale is reminiscent of the spiral and interlocked patterns that occur naturally in trees. Contemporary society and its complexities continue to push individuals from the norm or mainstream. A common reaction is the pursuit of differentiation or identifiability, and searching for or creating a niche. Streetwear can be referenced as a subculture to the greater fashion realm. Devotees – or customers – choose to align their appearance with a particular brand, effectively becoming a member of a crew. Whether a religion, spiritual following, military squadron or platoon, gang, crew, or tribe, these vastly different subcultures share one foundational aspect – devotion.

SS16 sees the return of DPM: British Bonsai, a disruptive pattern that incorporates Bonsai tree shapes growing from heavenly clouds, reminding us that camouflage has its roots in nature.

DESERT: Storm is the latest editorial in an ongoing series that pairs maharishi clothing against nature’s elements. The last editorial – CLIMATE: Monsoon – featured breathable and waterproof technical fabrics. This instalment sees maharishi’s SS16 collection brave the harsh desert climate. Reminiscent of zero visibility conditions you might find in the Sahara desert – or Burning Man – the editorial features a snapshot of the religious devotee-inspired collection. The seasonal camouflage pattern DPM: British Bonsai Forest can be spotted in its three variants: Papal Woodland, Sand, and Desert Blaize. Camouflage styles found in this collection are fully reversible, enabling the pattern to be worn internally. Adding to the versatility is a zip-off Raw Crew Sweat. More directional pieces include a Suede Flight Jacket and Hakama Pants, with an embroidered Camo Tour Jacket making an appearance through the dust. Look for classic MA Bags and a high frequency welded Day Backpack to keep valuables safe in any condition – with reversible Barboutas to shelter the head and neck.

maharishi unveils the “Year of the Cowboy” capsule collection, which draws inspiration from Travis’ studio album Rodeo and his Texas roots.

Continuing the visual exploration of the theme “Post-Geographic Devotional Uniform & Habits.”

Post-Geographic Devotional Uniform & Habits.

Taking cues from the complexities in social fabric of the Far East and West – the SS16 women's collection fuses traditional Japanese design elements with relaxed Americana sportswear.

In traditional Chinese mythology the Monkey God can be seen in many traditional settings as a talisman of protection – or more playfully a rebellious skeleton as embroidered by maharishi.

In an era of escalating surveillance by government agencies and corporations, Maharishi seek deep cover and look for inspiration in the way of the ninja – the original masters of stealth. In Maharishi’s interpretation, the function of these garments is changed from one of combat preparedness, to 21st century utility, with cuts and detailing specifically suited to the needs of the international traveller   The disruptive pattern, ‘DPM: MAHSAT Europe’ has been developed to represent satellite display imagery and is printed in bright green and red on a black base. Integrated within the design is a pointillist version of the Bonsai Forest house camouflage pattern – its natural and organic shapes infilled with a dotted pattern recalling the techniques of artists Georges Seurat and Roy Lichtenstein. This 21st century pointillism has been designed to disrupt video surveillance systems.   The print is used throughout the collection but can be seen here on a few highlighted styles. A hooded visor sweat in organic cotton features an integrated barbouta hood with adjustable zip closure and Italian 2 ply nylon water resistant panels, as well as internal Swiss coolmesh hand cuffs and thumbholes; again referencing the ninja.

Maharishi’s trademark Bonsai Forest camouflage pattern is reimagined in a partially disintegrated style, it’s natural and organic shapes infilled with a dotted pattern recalling the pointillist techniques of artists Georges Seurat and Roy Lichtenstein. This 21st century pointillism has been designed to disrupt video surveillance systems.

The Autumn Winter 14 season sees the release of the much anticipated collaboration between London’s MHI and Los Angeles’ Undefeated.A key component of this capsule collection is the “DPM: Disruptive Court” camouflage pattern developed by MHI. The pattern is based on the famous Tigerstripe camouflage originally used by South Vietnamese forces, and later adopted by the U.S. Its success in the field has led to a proliferation of variants worn by armed forces across the globe, as well as being readily absorbed by popular culture and fashion.

DPM: Pixel Bonsai Forest includes the natural forms always present in Maharishi’s house camouflage pattern, but infiltrates them with pixels of different sizes, referring to those which make up the screens to which we direct so much of our time and attention.Through the graphic embellishments of the collection, camouflage and mimicry in the natural and digital environments are explored. Biological mimicry is the form of deception where a species takes on the appearance of another, or of its surroundings, such as caterpillars that resemble twigs, bark or leaves.In the digital world, new technologies are often explained by illustrations of their real-world counterparts, such as the ‘desktop’ displays of most operating systems. This design practice is known as skeuomorphism. As we grow more accustomed to a life integrated with digital technology, these comparisons become less relevant, and skeuomorphs begin their decline.Maharishi continues to examine the semiotics of camouflage in contemporary society – underpinned by the brand’s philosophy to reclaim it from its military associations and reinforce its roots in nature, natural history and art.